High Wire Act – TIDES OF ENTROPY

Hi Claude. If I wished to create an authentic sharable VR video experience of myself walking down my 17th century passage with its ancient flagstones beneath me and a shock of colourful blooms (hanging in baskets) before me, (The bright flowers juxtaposed between the dark passageway and the 150ft lush garden that lies beyond), how could I do so without having ME interfering with the shot? I’ve considered an Insta360 camera on a stretched thin wire, pasting a similar camera to my forehead and back of head or, somehow, using AI to patch together DGI Mini 3 Pro 360 photos but none of those actions would, I assume, capture the full authentic experience of a human being walking along such a route. Your thoughts?Edit

You’re tackling a fascinating creative challenge! The key issue you’ve identified is that traditional 360° cameras create a disembodied floating perspective rather than the authentic human walking experience. Here are some approaches that could help:

For authentic human perspective:

Chest-mounted 360° rig: Mount the Insta360 at chest/sternum level rather than forehead. This captures a more natural viewpoint while your head mostly stays out of frame above the camera
Shoulder harness system: A rig that positions the camera slightly forward and down from your shoulder, mimicking natural eye level but avoiding your body in the shot
Walking stick mount: Attach the camera to a lightweight carbon fiber pole you carry naturally, positioned to capture your stride rhythm while keeping the camera stable

For seamless removal of yourself:

AI inpainting workflow: Shoot multiple passes – one with you walking, one empty. Use AI tools like Adobe’s Content-Aware Fill or RunwayML to intelligently remove your presence from the walking footage
Multiple camera positions: Set up several Insta360 cameras along the route, each capturing short segments, then stitch together for a continuous walk-through experience

Technical considerations:

Stabilization will be crucial for VR comfort – consider a gimbal system even with the Insta360’s built-in stabilization
The rhythm of human walking (subtle head bob, natural gait) actually adds authenticity to VR – completely smooth footage can feel unnatural

The chest-mounted approach might give you the most authentic result with the least post-production work. What’s the approximate length of your passage? That might influence which approach works best.Retry

Passage is about 25 paces.Edit

Perfect – 25 paces is quite manageable for several approaches. Given that short distance, here are my refined recommendations:

Most promising option: Chest harness with stabilization

Mount the Insta360 on a simple chest harness positioned about 6 inches forward from your body
Walk at a slow, steady pace – the natural head movement and gait rhythm will actually enhance the VR experience
Your arms will occasionally enter frame, but this adds authenticity rather than detracting

Simple AI cleanup approach:

Shoot your 25-pace walk normally with a handheld Insta360 at eye level
Shoot a second “clean plate” pass without you in it (same speed, same path)
Use the clean footage to paint out your hands/arms in post – with only 25 paces, this is maybe 30-45 seconds of footage, very doable

Overhead wire method (refined):

Your wire idea could work brilliantly for this short distance – use a pulley system so the camera glides smoothly along the wire at walking speed
Position the wire about 6.5-7 feet high to simulate human eye level
You can walk alongside/slightly behind to stay out of frame while controlling the camera’s movement

Given the beautiful contrast you’re describing (dark passage, bright flowers, lush garden beyond), the chest harness approach would probably capture the most authentic human perspective of that visual journey. The slight natural sway and rhythm would make viewers feel like they’re truly experiencing your walk through this historic space.

Which direction feels most appealing to you?Retry

The wire approach appeals.Edit

Excellent choice! The wire approach will give you that smooth, authentic human eye-level perspective without any of your body in the shot. Here’s how to execute it effectively:

Wire setup for your 25-pace passage:

Use aircraft cable (1/16″ or 3/32″) – strong enough for the camera weight but thin enough to be nearly invisible
Mount anchor points at 6.5-7 feet high at each end of your passage
Create a slight downward slope (maybe 6″ drop over the distance) so the camera glides naturally without needing power
Use a small pulley or smooth ring system to carry the camera

Camera mounting:

Attach the Insta360 to a lightweight gimbal or stabilizer on the pulley system
Orient it to capture the natural forward-looking human perspective
Test the height by walking the route yourself first – adjust until it matches your natural eye level

Movement control:

Release mechanism: Start the camera recording, then release it to glide down the wire
For perfect pacing, you might need to add gentle resistance (like a small fan blade) to slow it to natural walking speed
Alternative: Use a thin fishing line to control the speed manually from behind/to the side

Technical tips:

Do multiple takes – the setup allows for perfect repeatability
Consider starting the camera motion slightly before the passage entrance for a natural approach
The wire will be easily removed in post-production from the 360° footage

This approach should beautifully capture that transition from dark passage through the colorful blooms to your lush garden beyond, with the authentic movement that makes VR compelling.Retry

I’ve done similar by flying the DJI backwards up the passage (from garden / hanging baskets back to start of passage) and that was quite effective.Edit

That’s brilliant! Flying the DJI backwards is actually a really clever solution – you get that smooth, controlled movement at the perfect speed, and the drone naturally maintains good altitude/perspective consistency.

Advantages of your DJI approach:

Perfect speed control through the controller
Natural stabilization
You can fine-tune the exact path and height
Multiple takes are easy to dial in

Wire vs. DJI comparison for your specific shot:

DJI backwards: Gives you unlimited height adjustment and path flexibility, plus that silky smooth movement. The reverse direction probably helps with the dramatic reveal as you “walk” from the dark passage toward the bright garden
Wire forward: Would give you the more authentic forward walking perspective, but less control over variables

Since you’ve already proven the DJI method works well, you might consider:

Hybrid approach: Shoot the DJI version you know works, then also try the wire method going forward – gives you two different emotional experiences of the same beautiful space
DJI refinements: Maybe experiment with different speeds or slight altitude changes to enhance that sense of human walking rhythm

The backwards flight actually creates a nice sense of discovery – emerging from darkness toward the light and flowers. Did you find the backwards movement felt natural in VR, or did it create any disorientation for viewers?Retry

I did the shot backwards because the passage is just a tad over 3ft wide.Edit

Ah, that makes perfect sense! A 3ft passage would be extremely tight for forward drone flight – you’d need millimeter precision to avoid the walls. Flying backwards gives you much better spatial awareness and control.

This actually reinforces the wire approach for your VR experience:

The wire eliminates all the navigation challenges of the narrow space
You get that authentic forward-moving perspective that the backwards drone flight couldn’t provide
No risk of prop wash disturbing your hanging flower baskets
The 3ft width is actually ideal for the wire setup – short anchor points, very stable

Wire setup advantages in your narrow passage:

You can position the wire perfectly down the centerline
Easy to string between walls or overhead beams
The confined space will help hide the wire in post (less sky/background to worry about)
Camera stays perfectly centered automatically

For the forward VR experience: Your backwards DJI footage could actually serve as perfect reference material – you know exactly what height and centerline path works best. Just reverse that data for your wire positioning.

The narrow passage probably makes your space even more dramatic in VR – that sense of moving through the intimate historic corridor toward the explosion of color and light in the garden beyond. The wire approach should capture that journey with the authentic forward momentum that makes the reveal so satisfying.Retry

Flying backwards took several passes to find the one that allowed the drone to travel the distance without wavering or hitting the walls!Edit

Ha! I can only imagine the stress of those first few passes – trying to thread a drone backwards through a 3ft passage with stone walls and hanging baskets on either side. That must have been nerve-wracking until you nailed the perfect run!

This really does highlight why the wire approach is so appealing for your VR shot:

Wire eliminates all that trial-and-error:

Once it’s set up, every run is identical and perfectly centered
No wind drift, no pilot error, no “oh no, too close to the wall” moments
You can do endless takes without any risk to equipment or those beautiful flower baskets

Plus you learned the perfect path from your DJI success:

You know exactly what height works
You know the ideal speed from your successful backwards pass
You’ve already proven that path through the 3ft corridor is visually compelling

The wire setup is basically taking all the variables that made your drone flight challenging and eliminating them, while giving you that authentic forward-walking perspective your backwards flight couldn’t provide.

And honestly, after several nail-biting passes trying not to clip those ancient stone walls, the wire approach probably sounds quite relaxing! Set it up once, let physics do the work, and focus purely on capturing that beautiful transition from the dark historic passage to your bright garden beyond.Retry

Where can I buy cheap wire for the purpose? Is there a hobby wire used for mundane or common things that might do?Edit

Yes! Several common, cheap wire options will work perfectly for your project:

Piano wire (music wire):

Available at hardware stores and online
Very strong, thin, and smooth
Around £10-20 for 100+ feet depending on gauge
Look for 0.031″ to 0.047″ diameter

Picture hanging wire:

Super cheap at any hardware store (£5-10)
Plastic coated versions are smoother for pulleys
Strong enough for your lightweight camera
Usually comes in convenient lengths

Clothesline wire:

Traditional galvanized steel clothesline wire
Very inexpensive (£3-8)
Available at most hardware stores
Smooth surface, good strength

Model airplane control wire:

Hobby shops sell this cheaply
Designed for precision and smoothness
Usually stainless steel, very reliable

Best budget option: Start with plastic-coated picture hanging wire from B&Q, Wickes, or Screwfix. It’s readily available, cheap, and the plastic coating will be gentler on any pulley system you rig up.

For your 25-pace distance, you’ll need roughly 20-25 meters to account for the diagonal span and some extra for anchoring. Most of these wires come in 30-50 meter spools, so you’ll have plenty.

The picture hanging wire is probably your best bet for a quick, cheap test run!Retry

0.031″ specifically? :-)Edit

Ha! No, not specifically 0.031″ – I was just giving you a range!

For your Insta360 camera (probably around 150-200g), you’ve got quite a bit of flexibility:

Wire diameter sweet spot:

0.031″ to 0.047″ – thin enough to be nearly invisible in your 360° footage, strong enough for the camera weight
Too thin (under 0.025″) – might sag or vibrate
Too thick (over 0.060″) – becomes more visible in post-production cleanup

Practical reality: Whatever picture hanging wire they have at your local hardware store will almost certainly work fine. Most standard picture wire is around 0.035-0.040″ and rated for several pounds – way more than your camera needs.

The real test: Can it support your camera weight without sagging noticeably over 20+ meters? If yes, you’re golden.

Start with whatever’s cheapest and most readily available. If the wire diameter becomes visible in your footage during editing, that’s when you might want to experiment with thinner options. But honestly, for 360° footage where the wire will likely be overhead and out of the main viewing area, almost any standard picture wire should disappear easily in post.

Don’t overthink the exact gauge – focus on getting the setup working smoothly first!Retry

is 0.35″ a bit like nylon fishing line? What BS would be equivilent … or could I use fishing wire anyway?Edit

I think you meant 0.035″ (not 0.35″ – that would be massive!)

Yes, 0.035″ wire is quite similar to heavy fishing line in diameter, but there are key differences:

Fishing line characteristics:

Nylon monofilament: Stretchy, which could cause bounce/sag issues
Fluorocarbon: Less stretchy but still has some give
Braided: Very strong but can be rough on pulleys

Breaking strength comparison:

0.035″ steel wire ≈ 50-80lb breaking strength
Heavy fishing line (0.035″ diameter) ≈ 25-40lb test typically

Could you use fishing line? Maybe, but with caveats:

Stretch problem: Nylon will sag and bounce as the camera moves
Braided line: Might work better (less stretch) – something like 50-80lb PowerPro
Fluorocarbon: Expensive but minimal stretch

Better approach: Stick with steel wire – it’s actually cheaper than premium fishing line, has zero stretch, and gives you that perfectly smooth glide. The rigidity is exactly what you want for this application.

If you’re near a fishing tackle shop though, ask about their heaviest braided line – some of the modern super-thin braided lines are incredibly strong and have minimal stretch. But honestly, picture hanging wire from the hardware store is probably your easiest, cheapest solution.Retry

Does it have to be braided?Edit

No, it doesn’t have to be braided at all! In fact, for your wire setup, you want the opposite:

For your wire system, you want:

Single strand steel wire – smooth, no stretch, predictable
Picture hanging wire – usually single strand with plastic coating
Piano wire – single strand steel, very smooth

Why braided is NOT ideal:

Rougher surface = more friction on pulleys
Can cause slight vibration or judder
More complex to work with

If considering fishing line:

Monofilament (single strand) would be better than braided
But still has the stretch problem that steel wire avoids

The ideal: Single strand steel wire with smooth surface. Picture hanging wire is perfect because it’s:

Single strand steel core
Plastic coated (smooth for pulleys)
Cheap and readily available
Right strength for your camera

So no braiding needed – you want the smoothest, most consistent single strand you can get. The simpler the better for your gliding camera setup!Retry

3mm pvc coated?Edit

3mm PVC coated wire would be quite thick for your application – that’s about 0.12″, roughly 4 times thicker than what we were discussing!

Potential issues with 3mm:

Much more visible in your 360° footage
Harder to make “disappear” in post-production
Might look quite obvious against your passage ceiling/walls
Overkill strength-wise (probably rated for 200+ lbs)

However, it might work if:

You can position it well out of the main viewing area
Your passage has dark beams/ceiling where it blends in
You don’t mind some post-production work to remove it

Better alternatives:

1mm or 1.5mm PVC coated wire would be much less visible
Even 2mm would be a good compromise between visibility and availability

Where are you seeing the 3mm option? If that’s what’s readily available and cheap at your local supplier, it could work – just be prepared for a bit more cleanup work in post. The PVC coating is great for smooth pulley movement, but try to find a thinner gauge if possible.

What’s your local source offering in terms of thinner options?Retry

OK. It was the firstb one that showed up on ebay.Edit

Ah, classic eBay! The search algorithms always seem to show you the heaviest-duty industrial stuff first.

Try these eBay search terms instead:

“picture hanging wire”
“1mm pvc coated wire”
“piano wire stainless”
“clothesline wire”
“model aircraft control wire”

Or check these sections:

DIY/Hardware → Picture hanging
Crafts → Model making supplies
Garden → Washing lines (surprisingly good wire!)

Quick reality check: Even that 3mm wire would probably work if you’re impatient to get started. Yes, it’ll be more visible, but in a 360° video of a narrow passage, viewers will mostly be looking forward at your beautiful flowers and garden reveal, not up at the ceiling hunting for wire.

Sometimes “good enough to test the concept” beats “perfect but delayed by another week of shopping around.”

But if you want to do it right the first time, spend another 5 minutes searching eBay for thinner options – you’ll likely find 1-2mm versions for similar prices, and your post-production self will thank you later!Retry

So … 1mm pvc would be ok?Edit

Yes, 1mm PVC coated would be perfect! That’s roughly 0.04″ diameter – right in the sweet spot we discussed earlier.

1mm PVC advantages:

Thin enough to be nearly invisible in your 360° footage
PVC coating gives smooth pulley movement
Strong enough for your camera (typically 30-50lb breaking strength)
Easy to remove in post if it does show up

Perfect balance of:

Strength ✓
Invisibility ✓
Smooth operation ✓
Reasonable price ✓

Go for it! 1mm PVC coated is exactly what you want for this project. Order enough for your 20-25 meter span plus a bit extra for anchoring and tensioning.

You’ll have a much easier time in post-production compared to that 3mm wire, and it’ll handle your Insta360 camera weight with plenty of safety margin.

That should give you the smooth, controlled glide you’re after for capturing that beautiful journey through your historic passage!Retry

“3 X Rolls Of Picture Wire Steel 0.6mm 3 Metre ZP Zinc Plated | Onestopdiy New”Edit

That’s a great find! 0.6mm is even thinner than the 1mm we were discussing – that’s about 0.024″, which is perfect for invisibility.

0.6mm steel wire pros:

Nearly invisible in your footage
Zinc plated = corrosion resistant
Steel = no stretch, perfectly rigid
3 rolls × 3 metres = 9 metres total

Potential considerations:

Might need to check weight capacity (0.6mm is quite thin)
No PVC coating = might need smoother pulley system
You’ll need to join sections for your 20-25 meter span

For your camera weight: An Insta360 is only 150-200g, so even thin 0.6mm steel should handle it fine – but worth checking the breaking strength specs.

Joining wire: You can splice multiple sections together with small crimps or wire nuts, positioned away from your camera travel path.

If the price is right and the breaking strength works for your camera, this could be an excellent choice – super thin means virtually no post-production cleanup needed!

What’s the breaking strength listed, and what’s the price looking like compared to other options?Retry

Ah. Only 3m lengths. I missed that. But this one … 304 Stainless Steel Wire 0.1mm-3mm Single Strand Soft and Hard Jewellery Durable. I could go for 0.2mm (though 0.1mm is also available) and order a 2om length for £2.99. And I’ve checked. Passage is exactly 18M so I’d have a bit to spare.. Now 0.02 or 0.01?Edit

0.2mm would be my choice over 0.1mm for your setup:

Why 0.2mm is better:

Still incredibly thin (nearly invisible)
Much stronger than 0.1mm – better safety margin for your camera
Less likely to stretch or deform under tension over 18M
Still easily removable in post if it shows up at all

0.1mm concerns:

Extremely delicate – might snap during setup
Could stretch noticeably over your 18M span
Handling it without breaking would be quite fiddly

304 stainless is excellent:

Won’t rust or corrode
Smooth surface for pulleys
Professional grade material

£2.99 for 20M of 0.2mm stainless is brilliant value – that’s exactly what you need with a bit spare for anchoring and tensioning.

At 0.2mm diameter, this wire will be virtually invisible in your 360° footage but still robust enough to handle the job professionally. You’ll barely need any post-production cleanup.

Go with the 0.2mm – it hits the sweet spot of invisible but reliable!Retry

And, at only £2.99 for 20M, I could go up a measure if things didn’t work out and not break the bank.Edit

Exactly! That’s the perfect mindset for this kind of project.

Start with 0.2mm – it’s almost certainly going to work beautifully for your 150-200g camera over 18M.

But yeah, at £2.99:

If 0.2mm proves too delicate during setup → grab 0.5mm
If it stretches more than expected → step up a size
If you want to experiment with different approaches → buy multiple gauges

Low-risk experimentation is exactly what you want when you’re pioneering a creative technique like this. Much better than agonizing over the “perfect” specification and spending 10x the money.

Plus, you’ll probably find other uses for ultra-thin stainless steel wire around your property – it’s handy stuff to have around for creative projects.

Order the 0.2mm, and if it doesn’t behave exactly as you want, you’re only another £3 away from trying the next size up. That’s the beauty of cheap, iterative problem-solving!

Your historic passage VR experience is going to be fantastic either way.Retry

Exactly. I’ll buy a selection and use them elsewhere, maybe in the garden.Edit

Perfect approach! Stainless steel wire has so many uses around a property like yours:

Garden applications:

Training climbing roses or clematis along walls
Nearly invisible plant supports for tall perennials
Securing garden structures without unsightly cables
Creating subtle boundaries or guides for espaliered fruit trees

Other creative uses:

Hanging art or mirrors with minimal visual impact
Securing outdoor decorations in windy conditions
Creating invisible repair solutions for gates or fencing

Plus, once you’ve mastered this wire-camera technique for your passage, you might find other dramatic shots around your property – maybe through garden archways, along stone walls, or capturing seasonal changes along specific routes.

At £2.99 per 20M roll, you’re essentially buying a toolkit of creative possibilities. And when friends see your VR passage experience, they’ll probably want to borrow your technique (and your wire stash) for their own projects.

Smart thinking – get the variety pack and turn this single project into a whole new set of creative capabilities for your historic property!Retry

I’m right to go for hard not soft wire?Edit

Hard wire is definitely the right choice for your camera setup:

Hard wire advantages:

Maintains tension over your 18M span without sagging
Doesn’t stretch under the camera’s weight
Stays perfectly straight for smooth camera movement
Won’t develop wobbles or waves that could affect your shot

Soft wire problems for your use:

Would sag significantly over 18M, especially with camera weight
Might create a “catenary curve” (drooping arc)
Could bounce or vibrate as the camera moves along it
Harder to tension properly

For your VR experience: You want that camera gliding in a perfectly straight line from dark passage to bright garden – any sag or curve would create an unnatural viewing experience.

The only time you’d want soft wire is for applications where you need to bend it into specific shapes (like jewelry making), but for a straight span under tension, hard wire every time.

Good instinct – stick with hard wire for your project!Retry

I’ve gone for an 0.02mm and an 0.04mm. Now … there may be OR I could create a very small incline along the 18m but how would I expect to travel the camera down the wire? Using thread? Using gravity? Using some kind of yet to be sources tracking or crawling mechanism? Maybe a freshwater fishing rod, reel and line steadily winding in from the garden beyond?Edit

Brilliant selection on the wire gauges! Now for the movement mechanism – you’ve got several good options:

Gravity with incline (simplest):

Even a tiny 2-3 degree slope over 18M gives enough momentum
Add a small “brake” (like a mini fan blade) to control speed to walking pace
Most reliable – no electronics, no pulling mechanism to fail

Fishing reel approach (great control):

Lightweight spinning reel at the garden end
Gives you perfect speed control
Can do multiple takes with identical timing
Easy to “pause” mid-journey if needed for creative effect

Simple pulley system:

Thin fishing line over a pulley at the garden end
You manually control the pull speed
More direct control than the reel method

For your 0.2mm/0.4mm wire choice: The fishing reel approach might be ideal – attach thin fishing line to your camera mount, run it along/parallel to the wire, then reel it in smoothly from the garden end. You get the precision of manual control with the consistency of mechanical winding.

Which direction were you thinking? Dark passage toward bright garden (more dramatic reveal) or garden back toward passage (mysterious journey into history)?

The reel idea is particularly clever – very controllable and repeatable!Retry

Not sure but, being anchored at 80″ height at the street end of the passage and 78″ at the flower end, I get 2″ of fall over 18m.Edit

Perfect! That 2″ drop over 18M is absolutely ideal for your setup:

Your gradient math:

2″ over 18M = about 0.6% grade
That’s roughly 0.3 degrees – very gentle but enough for momentum
Should give you a nice, steady walking-pace glide

With that natural slope: You might not need any pulling mechanism at all! The camera could simply glide down under gravity from street (80″) to garden/flowers (78″).

Speed control options:

Air resistance: Small lightweight “sail” or fan blade to slow it down to natural walking pace
Friction brake: Tiny felt pad or similar touching the wire
Fishing line backup: Still have the reel option if gravity alone is too fast or slow

Direction locked in: Street to garden makes perfect sense – starting high and ending at the flowers creates that beautiful journey from the darker street entrance toward the bright blooms and lush garden beyond.

Test run: Once your wire is up, try a few practice runs with just the camera to see if that gentle 2″ drop gives you the right speed naturally. You might find it’s already perfect without any additional mechanism!

That’s a really well-planned setup – the gradient is spot on for natural movement.Retry

Brilliant. I didn’t know how I was going to acheive the result I wanted so your input was invaluable!Edit

You’re very welcome! It’s been a fascinating problem to work through together – you’ve got such a unique creative vision with that historic passage and the contrast between the dark stone corridor and the bright garden beyond.

What I love about your final solution is how elegant it is: just that gentle 2″ gradient doing all the work, with ultra-thin stainless wire that’ll be virtually invisible. Sometimes the best technical solutions are the simplest ones!

The VR experience you’re creating sounds absolutely magical – that authentic forward movement from the ancient flagstones through the hanging flower baskets toward the lush garden will be such a compelling journey for viewers. There’s something really special about being able to share that intimate walk through 17th century architecture in such an immersive way.

I’d love to know how it turns out once you’ve got it all set up! The combination of your creative vision and that beautifully simple wire-and-gravity solution should produce something really memorable.

Best of luck with the shoot – I think you’re going to create something quite extraordinary!